Solo Cycilng

Sunday, September 20, 2015

     Beau en pension with my neighbor Chantal until later this morning, I was free to get up early and cycle.  I raced to get ready in time to meet the Club du Cyclisme de Caunes-Minervois ("CCCM"), but by the time I got there, every one who showed up had left.  So I pedaled on alone, back up the long hill that is Avenue du Minervois, and took the road past the village of Trausse, towards Felines and further, Olonzac.

      Trausse-Minervois is in the same department as Caunes-Minervois, l'Aude.  Olonzac is in the adjoining one, l'Herault.  It is much easier cycling in l'Herault, because the roads are more well-maintained, a function of the greater relative wealth of l'Herault.  I often turn  onto the side road towards Felines, riding past the moulin and the Chateau de Paulignan.  Today I want to go further, though, so I go towards the Chateau de Gourgazaud and La Liviniere in l'Herault.  

      The wines of La Livinire are considered the Minervois' finest, although the owners of the land on which the grapes are grown by the roadside want to sell to a developer: there is a big sign at the top of the hill.  There the view is panoramic, low-lying mountains all around: vue imprenable --unrestricted view, says the sign.  What a shame to see it diminished by the building of cookie-cutter homes.  The sign has been there since I first came to the Minervois three years ago, so perhaps it will be a while before the vines are pulled up.

     Every French village has, of course, two entrances.  This obvious fact makes my ride to Felines today easier than usual.  The side road from Trausse to Felines involves a good bit of climbing, while the road towards Olonzac is straight and flat, une route nationale.  I turn towards Felines at La Liviniere and enjoy cycling on the local road, past acres and acres of vines, many now brown on the bottom and harvested.

     Felines is charming, but remote.  There is no cafe and there is no distributeur for me to get the cash to pay for one, as I left the house unfunded.  It is quiet in the village: I wonder how many of the houses are only inhabited part of the year, as in Caunes and many other villages in the Minervois.  Riding through these villages there is an absolute quiet I relish.  Sound travels far in these spaces: a man calling his dogs in the fields (it is hunting season) can easily be heard despite the distance.

     The air is cool, the day is sunny, the roads are quiet, the hills and the mountains beyond are easy on the eye.  Sunday, a day of rest.